San Francisco Neighborhood: North Beach

Neighborhood:
North Beach

Briefly:
A vibrant neighborhood, San Francisco's "Little Italy" is also quite the melting pot. Here you'll find a nice mix of restaurants, bakeries, cafes, and gelato parlors; it's also a destination for tourists interested in learning more about the Beat culture that once was. (i.e. City Lights Bookstore, Vesuvio). Bordered by history, North Beach's boundaries are: the former Barbary Coast, the Financial District, Chinatown, Telegraph Hill, Russian Hill, and Fisherman's Wharf (north of Bay Street). Walk its main thoroughfare of Columbus Avenue and spend the day getting to know this very distinct district of San Francisco, dotted with historic and cultural sights.

The name "North Beach" was born in the 1850s when a sliver of the bay could be found between Telegraph Hill and Russian Hill. Though the water and shore are long gone, the name remains forever.

• Washington Square Park: Located between Powell, Stockton, Union and Filbert Streets, this "square" is right in front of Saints Peter and Paul Church and provides a nice place to relax after a day spent exploring. The greenery was set aside in 1850 and on any given day, you can find a buzz of neighborhood activity. The square is also where various neighborhood events take place (or end, like the Italian Heritage Parade).


• Saints Peter and Paul Church: Located at 666 Filbert Street, this neo-Gothic cathedral towers over the neighborhood in blessed protection. It was consecrated in 1924 and features twin spires, soaring skyward 191 feet. From here, the annual blessing of the fishing fleet takes place each October.
  
• St. Francis of Assisi Church: Established in 1849, this church is a shrine to St. Francis of Assisi and throughout the year, holds special events within its walls, including free Sunday concerts (with its Schoenstein pipe organ; 4 p.m.) and the annual animal blessing in June.
  
• Coit Tower: Built in 1933 at the bequest of Lillie Hitchcock Coit, the art-deco tower rises 210 feet, is made of reinforced concrete, and contains a number of Depression-era murals . To view the lobby is free; the artwork in the spiral stairway is only viewable through a San Francisco City Guides tour.
  
• Filbert Steps: Located at Filbert and Montgomery Streets, this is where you can see the famed parrots of Telegraph Hill. From the steps, there are also many lovely views of the city and neighborhood.

Note: You may have seen in movies, such as Dirty Harry, the "adult" section of North Beach. Located along a portion of Broadway Ave., it still exists but has been tempered over the years. Economics dictate change, and several of the previous strip clubs have been replaced by more mainstream businesses.

What's New:
A very active neighborhood that manages to mix the past with the present. Keep in mind these annual fests!

• Art in the Alley: May; An outdoor art event taking place in Jack Kerouac Alley, which has just been renovated by the Chinatown Alleyway Improvement Association (2007). With stone pavers, street lamps, and engraved poetry tablets, this alleyway connecting North Beach and Chinatown is simply lovely.
  
• North Beach Festival: Father's Day Weekend; the oldest urban street fair in the United States. Lots of family fun, including the pizza toss contest, arte di gesso (Italian street chalk art), and juried arts and crafts. And, to read about other similar Italian festivals in the United States, definitely visit About.com Guide to Italy Travel Martha Bakerjian's site -- she has the full scoop. Thanks, Martha!
  
• North Beach Jazz Festival: July; a week of jazz in neighborhood cafes, pubs, and restaurants. All kinds of jazz styles can be enjoyed during the fest, which kicks off with the traditional free event, Jazz on Grant.
  
• Italian Heritage Parade: October; the oldest Italian heritage parade in the United States. More than 400,000 revelers are expected each year. The first took place in 1868.

When to Go:
Anytime is good, but to enjoy this popular neighborhood at a leisurely pace, then during the week is best. However, the weekend is when many regular events take place, like Saturday opera concerts at Caffe Trieste.

Transportation:
Driving isn't recommended, as you'll have a very difficult time finding parking. If you do drive, park in a garage and spend the day exploring, walking. As for public transportation, the Powell-Mason cable car passes right through North Beach, as do buses 15, 30, and 45.